While it is experiencing one of the most critical moments on its path towards accession to the European Union – after validating a referendum on October 20 by a narrow result – this Eastern European country, wedged between Ukraine and Romania, is each increasingly admired in the West for the quality of its wines. In the last five years, winegrowers gathered under the umbrella of the Wine of Moldova brand have won more than 6,000 medals in international competitions; half of them, gold. This success has reinforced the reputation of this former Soviet republic of 2.6 million inhabitants as a producer of excellent wines, and has attracted increased interest from foreign tourists wishing to discover its rich wine heritage.
Precisely, at the beginning of October, the National Office of Vine and Wine (ONVV) announced that it has become the second most prominent destination in terms of wine tourism, according to a study by the Bounce platform, surpassing traditionally famous countries such as France, Spain and Italy. Their criteria were based on their production, the extent of the vineyard areas and the number of itineraries available. “It is not a miracle, nor something that has happened overnight, it is the result of a series of actions that were launched since the Russian embargo in 2016, when 80% of exports,” explains sommelier Adrian Cibotaru. “At that time, the wines were not of quality, since the Russian Federation demanded cheap wines, so producers were satisfied with what they sold to the detriment of excellence,” continues the expert.
The winegrowers were forced to reduce the quantity of production due to the Russian veto, understanding that there was no other option than the community market, a more developed and modern one in which quality prevails, so they launched a technological modernization plan to promote native varieties. “While the Russian customer required more of a semi-sweet or sweet wine; in the West, it is semi-dry and dry,” Cibotaru points out. Now, foreign sales have reversed. Last year, the community bloc took 58% of Moldova’s exports, while Russia has seen purchases plummet to below 5%. Moldova, located approximately and with a continental climate close to that of Burgundy, has become the epicenter of the Eastern European wine renaissance. The country enjoys between 310 and 320 days of sunshine, which, together with the transformation of the wine industry that has brought considerable advances in technical standards, makes Moldovan wine special.
An exotic curiosity
The director of the ONVV, Ștefan Iamandi, is proud of what he is getting. “We are new and consumers are curious to try something new. This is also noticeable in France, where the public no longer prefers old and heavy wines, but rather something new,” he remarks. Producers have gone from exporting from 20 to almost 70 countries in just over a decade. “Everyone knows Chardonnay, Merlot or Cabernet, but our varieties are unknown and people want to know more about them,” adds Iamandi, referring to the Feteasca Neagra and Rara Neagra grapes. The first has a strong flavor, while the other is more fruity with a touch of pepper.
About 3% of the world’s vineyards are found in Moldova, a country in which approximately 150,000 people live in one way or another in the sector. “The quality of our wines has evolved rapidly thanks to a great healthy and loyal competition from the 99 producers that exist in the country,” emphasizes Snejana Muntean, founder of the wine store and organizer of two festivals in the country, who is not surprised by the increase in tourists: “Vinegrowers have also developed the tourism part of their businesses, with hotels, restaurants and tastings, since they promote their products through tourism,” he concludes.
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