Es part of the cultural and culinary heritage from France. Its name literally translates as “fatty liver,” and it is not suitable for the most sensitive eaters. Although it is impossible to separate this delicacy from the identity of French gastronomyits preparation increasingly generates more controversy.
Foie gras is the dish that cannot be missed in celebrations and French Christmas. However, more and more people reject it due to its controversial preparation considered by many animal abuse. Now, the people of Pessacnear Bordeaux, just banned foie gras at formal events.
A decision that joins a list of more than 15 towns and cities that have decided to veto this dish at municipal events. “It is a symbolic decision in line with our actions for the environment and animal welfare. (…) I hope it helps raise awareness about the need to guarantee animal welfare, especially in the industrial food production”said its mayor, Franck Raynal.
Curiously, this initiative, more typical of an environmentalist councilor, comes from the hand of a right-wing mayor who, after listening to the initiative of the L214 association, decided to make this decision against “unacceptable abuse” just a few weeks before the Christmas holidays.
Forced overfeeding
The controversy is in the recipe for ‘foie gras’, which is traditionally made from forced overfeeding, using a tube in the mouth of the duck or gooseso that your liver gets fat.
Once the fatty liver is obtained, hence the name ‘foie gras’, the animal is sacrificed to obtain said organ and cook it. This recipe is considered one of the oldest, dating back to 2500 BC, and although it is one of the great delicacies on a French table, Some countries have decided to ban its production, such as the United Kingdom. Although, despite prohibiting it, its import and sale is legal, which is why France exports tons of ‘foie gras’ each year.
For France it is not just another dish, In 2006, foie gras was declared “cultural and gastronomic heritage”, but also a big business. The country is a world leader in its production, producing 19,000 tons of foie gras per year, which represents 75% of world production. It is also responsible for 90% of its consumption, which usually coincides with the holidays. Christmas and New Year’s Eve.
Neither the first nor the last
The decision of the municipality of Pessac has not surprised, nor has it generated controversy. It is not the first nor will it be the last. Cities in the country, such as Grenoble, Strasbourg, or Lyon have made the same decision to ban ‘foie gras’ at festivities and popular events.
It is a prohibition that simply restricts its consumption at official events for ethical and animal welfare reasons, but it does not prohibit its sale or private consumption. A gesture of awareness and a small step towards a total ban, according to animal associations.
An animalistic pressure that in places like California has already had an effect. Since 2004 it has been illegal to import and sell ‘foie gras’.
A new recipe
Faced with the rise of the unpopularity of ‘foie gras’, the well-known Michelin chef Alexis Gauthier has created its own vegetable version of this pâté, calling it ‘faux gras’.
It is a 100% vegetable recipe based on chickpeas, mushrooms, beet puree, shallot, brandy and lentils, among other ingredients. The dish promises to be the new protagonist on Christmas menus, and a good alternative to hypertrophied liver.
Among lovers and defenders of traditional ‘foie gras’, alternative methods for producing it have also emerged, leaving aside the controversial method of overfeeding the duck called ‘gavage’. This new method focuses on allowing birds to feed freely and base of high-calorie foods. An ‘ethical foie gras’ that has made its price explode (even more), since the production time of this delicacy is extended.
Furthermore, the price of this food has increased in recent years, as a consequence of the effects of the bird flu that has affected some farms in recent years, forcing producers to sacrifice animals affected by this disease. To avoid a shortage this Christmas, the French government has launched an avian vaccination campaign.
Over the years, new recipes have emerged that seek to replace this questionable ancient practice regarding animal treatment. A tradition with controversy in the country of champagne, oysters, and of course, foie gras.
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