He became the youngest person to climb the world’s highest peaks. Now he wants others to follow in his footsteps

He reached the summits of Everest and Lhotse, which is 8,516 meters high, on the same day – just 10 hours apart – and climbed five of the peaks in less than five weeks.

Nima Rinji Sherpa’s ears are still painted black from the wind chill, an occupational hazard of climbing heights where humans struggle to breathe and where the weather can turn fatal in an instant.

In October, Nima became the youngest person to summit the world’s 14 highest peaks, but the 18-year-old Nepalese climber is already gearing up for his next big achievement.

In an interview with CNN via video call from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, Nima says he is resting a few weeks before preparing to climb the eighth highest mountain in the world, Manaslu, with Italian climber Simone Moro – in winter, alpine style.

“That means we will climb an 8,000-meter mountain in winter… There are no fixed ropes for us, there is no (supplemental) oxygen for us, there is no support for us. Therefore, it is pure human resistance”, says Nima. “It’s never been done in the history of mountaineering.”

After that, “I’m going to rest a little”, laughs Nima.

On October 9, Nima reached the top of the 8,027-meter Shishapangma with fellow Pasang Nurbu Sherpa. For Nima, it was the last of the “eight thousand”, the 14 peaks recognized by the International Federation of Climbing and Mountaineering as being more than 8,000 meters above sea level.

Describing the moment of reaching the final peak as “pure joy”, Nima explains that the motivation comes from her family, many of whom are renowned climbers.

His father, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, climbed Everest nine times and at age 19 became the youngest person to reach the summit without bottled oxygen. His uncle, Mingma Sherpa, was the first South Asian climber to summit all 14 peaks in 2011.

“My uncles and my father are much more successful than I will ever be, because they came from a very small village. For them, dreaming of having this success was very difficult”, says Nima. “I have the privilege they didn’t have.”

Not just a support team

Nepal’s Sherpas have lived for generations in the high altitudes of the Himalayas and there are many who serve as guides and transporters whose local knowledge has been invaluable to foreigners trying to climb the region.

His name has become synonymous with mountaineering. Sherpas are most often the backbone of international mountaineering expeditions, carrying heavy equipment and provisions across mountains and guiding people to high-altitude summits in dangerous conditions.

But they often do not receive the same recognition or financial rewards as their Western counterparts.

Despite the record he set, Nima’s climbs did not attract major sponsors and he depended on his father’s company, 14 Peaks Expedition, for funding and logistical support.

“Everyone says Sherpas are superhuman, but how many Sherpas do we see being the face of a brand or being a sponsored athlete? None,” says Nima.

The climber admits he hopes he can inspire other young Sherpa climbers to reach their potential as athletes and professional climbers and not be seen as just a team to provide support.

“I hope to become the face of a big brand. The younger generation of Sherpas don’t see this as dead work, as risky work. They also see it as an athletic feat.”

Nima hopes to use his recent success to “open a door” for other Nepali climbers.

“Because sometimes in life we ​​come across a moment when we think that the community is bigger than us and that’s what I want, that’s what I hope for,” he says.

The death zone

Nima began her epic journey in September 2022, when she first climbed Manaslu in Nepal, at an altitude of 8,163 meters. Over the next two years, he summited all of the “eight thousanders,” including Everest, the world’s highest mountain at 8,849 meters, and the notoriously dangerous K2 at 8,611 meters.

He reached the summits of Everest and Lhotse, which is 8,516 meters high, on the same day – just 10 hours apart – and climbed five of the peaks in less than five weeks.

“When I climbed Everest it was night, so there was no view of the mountain. As we had to climb the next mountain, it was very quick. I took some photos… but in my head, I was thinking about the next mountain I was going to climb”, he remembers.

Nima’s favorite climb was Annapurna, at 8,091 meters, which he did without bottled oxygen.

“For a 17-year-old to do something without using oxygen is normally not recommended,” he laughs. “Annapurna was where I really felt strong… It was really one of my best, the most beautiful mountain for me.”

Nima says that the last 200 meters were the most difficult, because she spent “20 hours without oxygen in her brain”.

“Until then, I was feeling unstoppable, walking faster than everyone else”, he recalls.

But, he adds, mountains “always find a reason to keep us humble.”

“Regardless of the beauty of the mountains and the success of the summit, it will always be a dangerous sport”, he guarantees.

Nima and her climbing partner Pasang were caught “in a couple of avalanches” on Annapurna. He injured his arm before climbing Shishapangma and didn’t drink enough water, which left him cramping. And while climbing the last 700 meters of Nanga Parbat, at 8,126 meters, without fixed ropes, Nima slipped on an icy rock.

“The first word that came out of my mouth was the name of my climbing partner. I knew he was going to save me somehow, so I called him”, he describes. “We were together, linked by the same rope. So when I fell, he fell too, threw an ice ax and we stopped together.”

When you spend prolonged time above 8,000 meters – known as the “death zone” – the body begins to shut down. The thin air leaves the brain and lungs without oxygen, which can develop into a deadly situation of hypoxia.

Nima describes life above 8,000 meters as something that is “about who can suffer the most, given the circumstances.”

When temperatures drop below minus 16 degrees Celsius and the wind rushes at 100 kilometers per hour, Nima says that’s when a climber’s physical capacity runs out and mental strength takes over.

“Maybe I like to suffer”, he ponders, laughing.

Leave a better legacy

Nepal is at the center of the climate crisis as rising temperatures are rapidly melting Himalayan glaciers and worsening devastating floods affecting millions of people.

The increase in tourism in Nepal is bringing much-needed financial aid, but also tons of trash that threaten the fragile mountain ecosystem.

Nima says she hopes her generation can leave a more sustainable legacy for the next.

“We can see a lot of problems… Hopefully the younger generation, like me and others, will try to mobilize this industry and make it more sustainable for generations to come,” he says.

Nima’s dream is to create an organization that funds training and technical facilities to help young Nepalis begin climbing and guiding safely as a profession.

This year, Nepalese climbers broke many records in the Himalayas. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa became the youngest Nepali woman to climb all 14 peaks. Mingma G Sherpa became the first Nepali climber to summit all 14 peaks without bottled oxygen. And Phunjo Jhangmu Lama climbed Everest in a record 14.5 hours.

Nima admits that his dream is that Nepalese climbers can receive the same attention as professional Western climbers and adds that he already sees the younger generation making their own way.

“The generation before us is the pioneers, we are climbing the path they established”, he says.

“But I’m very happy to be living in this moment, as there is so much happening in the world of mountaineering. And as a younger generation, we will always try to do better.”

CNN’s Amy Woodyatt contributed to this report.