Lampreia is one of the most emblematic dishes of Portuguese cuisine, especially appreciated in the Tagus and Minho riverside regions. Considered a delicacy of intense flavor and secular tradition, this cyclistom fish has become increasingly rare, leading to a significant increase in its price. Despite the difficulties in capturing and reducing its abundance in national rivers, lamprey remains a culinary symbol that attracts lovers and tourists, being celebrated in gastronomic festivals and promoted as a product of excellence.
Scarcity in the Tagus River
Lamprey fishing has been a growing challenge for those who work on the Tagus River. In recent years, the scarcity of this species has led many fishermen to consider the business unfeasible.
Rui Ferreira, a fisherman with more than four decades of tejo experience, recalled the times when a lamprey was sold to five euros. Currently, prices can exceed 120 euros, a difference that reflects their growing rarity.
In restaurants in the region, where lamprey is part of the culinary tradition, the situation is no different. What was once an abundant dish in the menus became increasingly difficult to find.
With the supply to decrease, the cost of lamprey has been shooting, but demand remains high. However, there are those who fear that in the near future this fish may disappear from the menus.
For the inhabitants of the Tagus riverside zones, lamprey is more than a traditional dish – it is a symbol of local cuisine. However, ensuring your presence in the future depends on effective measures to preserve the species.
And in Minho?
In the north of the country, reality is not much different. In Rio Minho, the lamprey became a real luxury, reaching high prices and being increasingly scarce, as reported by the
At a press conference in Paredes de Coura, Carlos Fernandes, a specialist in gastronomy and tourism at the Viana do Castelo Polytechnic Institute, said that lamprey should be promoted as an exclusive product. “For three years not as a lamprea because for 120 or 150 euros (which each costs) I buy three goats on my land,” said the expert, underlining the impact of price increase.
The initiative “Lapreia do Rio Minho – a dish of excellence”, promoted by adirinho, started on January 15 and will take place until March 30. Carlos Brandão, coordinator of the Association, acknowledged that it was necessary to review prices in adherent restaurants.
“We have to promote lamprey as a rare, unfortunately rarer dish of excellence. It is a challenge that the territory has to face, ”he said, stressing the need to find solutions to minimize scarcity.
The climb of prices is inevitable, given that the purchase value to the fisherman is around 150 euros. According to Carlos Brandão, there are standards for restaurants, but the market price dictates the values practiced.
Currently, a restaurant outside the Minho region even charged 220 euros for a lamprey, which would give four people. In establishments adhering to the initiative, prices vary, but around 200 euros for this fish, respecting the margin of profit from restaurants.
Manoel Batista, president of the Alto Minho Intermunicipal Community, stressed the importance of continuing to promote traditional gastronomic products. However, he acknowledged that the reduction of lamprey in the Minho River is a growing difficulty.
Despite scarcity, organizers seek to innovate and attract new lovers. This year, alternative dishes such as croquettes and piza de lampreia were presented in an attempt to diversify the offer.
Ensuring the continuity of this fish in national cuisine requires a joint effort of fishermen, entrepreneurs and authorities. With no concrete measures, tradition may be at risk. While the future of lamprey remains uncertain, consumers will have to adapt to the new reality: a previously accessible plate has become a real luxury at the table.
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