Awakening roses – complex spring care for pink shrubs

Start by cleaning. As soon as the soil dries and can be kicked, the roses are off. Especially if compost is added to the root neck every year before winter, the plant may be literally “drowned” over time. Sometimes it is also necessary to remove excess soil when it cannot be properly spread into the surroundings.

When to cut?

The view of the roses does not have to be very happy now, but the gray -brown twigs at the end of March are always burning. Here is one of the many attractions of roses. While almost all other trees are cut at the time of peace, roses no longer bother and longer shoots. There is a fairly functioning rule that we cut the roses when yellow blooming gold (Forsythia) popularly called “Golden Rain”. Just be careful, this is also called gendarmes (Laburnum), which shows the grapes of flowers only in May. However, this is a time when roses already create buds and their cut is therefore not suitable.

Although people often worry about rose with scissors, the cut is basically very simple. It can be said that it is a greater mistake not to cut at all than cut too vigorously. First remove all shoots broken, frozen, dried, spotted, hollow, disfigured as boules. But then also those that are broken and dried only a little. The shoots might grow from them initially, but there would be few blooming. Especially after strong holomrazs, it may happen that only one viable eye remains on the bushes after cleaning, but it is enough for the roses to regenerate quite soon.

All roses do not cut the same

Flower bed

The basic early spring cut varies depending on the group of the variety. For simplicity, however, just remember that The roses planted in the beds cut more the greater the flowers.

Rose with fully open flowers with a diameter of 9 cm or more (tea -oral) shorten to the ground. Leave only a few stitches, the height of the shrub after the cut is only 10 to 15 cm.

If roses have smaller flowers, only 5 to 9 cm in diameter (floribundy, polyantahrides), cut them at about half the original height.
For roses with flowers even smaller with a diameter of 2 to 5 cm (polyants, miniature roses), remove only branched inflorescences from last year.

Roses orchard and ground cover

However, some varieties of roses are quite massive, upright and densely branched by a height of two meters or more. They refer to as roses. The native botanical roses with flowers usually grow to the same size. For all of these, the March cut is quite simple, because only near the ground you cut some of the oldest branches. You can then shorten adequately to maintain a compact side -balanced appearance of the shrub.

It is becoming increasingly popular not only in public plantings roses. Although today’s varieties also bloom significantly, their main task is to cover the land to the extent to reduce the growth of weeds. There will also be a simple rule and you usually work with fences, because you do not have to deal with individual twigs. Just cut the crop to a single height. Pay due attention to the edges of these beds, especially where roses grow into the roads.

Rose

With good care, they grow to a literally unreachable height. If possible, at least cut last year’s inflorescence. Especially for pouring roses you will find a lot of branches broken. Resign a few oldest shoots close to the ground, cut them into parts, remove them from the structure and pull out. Proceed so that you do not break the shoots. Then carefully tie these to the construction to the horizontal position, so that literally everyone has its place under the sun. The essential mistake is to tie the tipping rose all the branches to one stake in the broom. Cut all branches at your fingertips is little laborious, but the rose is lower, it blooms less and later.

The correct way of cutting

Cut the cut perpendicular about 5 to 10 mm above the eye. If you cut with a saw, it is advisable to align the overlapping bark of the scissors. If possible, try to leave the eye out of the bush. After about three weeks, it is advisable to go through the roses again, because not everything that is green is also alive.

Weed

After the cut branches, the crop of roses from the whole year is best accessible and is therefore the best time to fight perennial weeds. Their roots are thinner and lighter than the roots of roses. Try to pull them out in the whole and not tear them into parts, which then escape the attention and remain in the soil. The most difficult weeds in roses are creeping, a peeling bold, a general thistle or a peasant horsetail. It should be remembered that the roses are extremely sensitive to herbicide damage, which are therefore not used even on adjacent surfaces.

Cleaning

The Nerudovský problem, where with it, is particularly up -to -date in branches of roses with hidden fungal diseases. You will wonder how much waste is. In compost, the roses are stinging after years. If it is feasible, it is best to burn, another option is to split, which gets rid of the spines. Of course, do not pour the wood chips to the roses.

Fertilization

Roses are not particularly demanding for nutrients and in the first years after planting, fertilization is not needed for quality topsoil. Later, in addition to the domestic or bought compost, it is advisable to add about 50 g of full mineral fertilizer per square meter or to a solitary planted rose. The fertilizer should be granulated and should not contain chlorine. Each fertilization must be shallowly into the soil.

Rejuvenation

After about five years, there is a situation that the roses have a rather strong “antlers” at the ground. Carve them with a saw and simplify the branch. Be careful not to leave the root -up of the root. They are weaker, green, upright and little branched. Also, rejuvenate roses of orchards and tilt. Especially for these, the cutting surfaces are large and it is suitable for tree balsam, grafting wax or even latex. In the case of brilliant roses, the ideal time for repairing the coating of the structure is ideal for rejuvenation.

Spring planting

For several reasons, roses are preferable to plant in October or November than in March, which is particularly true of the seedlings of the bare roots, ie those with bare roots. In the spring, many varieties in kindergartens are already sold out, roses are sometimes more expensive. Especially if they were stored in bundles during the winter, they may suffer from mold. Planting in spring requires very attentive and regular watering.

Neglected roses

These areas need to be made available and cut as much as possible. In addition to the once planted roses you will find rootstocks, seedlings rose and other trees whose seeds were brought here by birds. When the roses left bloom, decide, you seem to leave them in place, move it elsewhere, multiply at home or whether you try to determine and buy quality varieties.

Tools for cutting roses

• Scissors It is necessary to have two -bit, well fitting, those that can cut even stronger branches. Absolutely inappropriate are scissors for cut of herbs.
• After work, always clean the gardening scissors and leave them open until they dry perfectly.
• The scissors should be regularly lubricated with high -quality oil or petrolatum.
• Gardening scissors are not easy and this incorrectly executed is considerably damaged. Therefore, entrust them to an expert or let the work show for the first time.
• It is not worth saving when purchasing. With professional scissors, you can cut all day without effort and bruising. They stainless, last for decades. They are produced for different hand sizes and also for left -handed and are spare parts.
• Gray For rose cuts is the ideal battery with a narrow strip. With such you get into the tangle of branches and you do not mind their shivers.

About the author

Jiří Žlebčík He’s a botanist. For decades he has been involved in the research and cultivation of plants at the VVI Research Institute, which also includes an extremely inspiring, accessible dendrological garden to the public.