Who cultivates Eric in pots He knows: 3 cm of expanded clay and 2 layers of non -woven fabric are enough to prevent the roots from rotting the first rains. This simple trick of layered drainage, tested on terraces exposed to the north, really makes the difference and protects the plant even when the climate becomes capricious.
The Erica, with its pink, white or lilac flowers, manages to give a romantic touch even to the greatest balconies. But under that delicate hair there is a real need: well -drained soil. When it rains too much and the water stagnates, its roots begin to suffer, and within a few days the plant can lose vigor. That’s why learning the right method to fix it in the pot makes the difference.
Often it is thought that a perforated sauce is enough and a little specific soil. In reality, this is only the beginning. The secret is to create a multi -level barrier that holds the necessary and let the superfluous flow. And you don’t need to spend exorbitant figures: with less than 5 euros you have everything you need. After all, who has never had a plant ruined by too much water?
Simple ideas to cultivate the Eric without errors
When you think of heric, autumn immediately comes to mind: fresh temperatures, soft colors, a muffled atmosphere. But not everyone knows that some varieties also resist in the most rigid winter, especially if well cared for. And everything starts from a good vase. Choosing a container too large or without holes is how to invite wedding rot. Better to opt for terracotta or resin pots, with a diameter of 18–22 cm per plant. In doing so, the stagnation is avoided and the ventilation of the roots is facilitated. Another often neglected detail is the position: the Erica loves light but not the sun directed in the hottest hours. Better a repaired corner, perhaps close to a wall that holds the heat. The strong wind? A silent enemy: dry the soil too quickly and stress the plant.
The ideal soil is the one for acidophile, the same that is used for azaleas and camelias. Add a handful of fine sand helps to make it more draining. The mulching with pine cortex is also useful, especially in pots: it maintains humidity without suffocating the substrate. Do not forget to wet in moderation: Erica does not like drought, but not even excesses. Touching the ground with fingers is an infallible method to understand when to intervene.
The layered method: how it really works
Imagine the vase like a small strata cake: each level has a precise function. This trick, also used by expert Florovivaisti, is simple to replicate and protects the plant in critical moments, such as autumn rains.
At the base it is put A layer of 3–4 cm of expanded clay. It serves to create an air chamber and to prevent the water from remaining too close to the roots. Immediately above, it is positioned A first layer of non -woven fabric: This separates the clay from the substrate and prevents the soil from falling and obstructs the drainage holes.
Then comes the heart of the system: the soil for acidophileenriched with 10% of fine sand. It is not necessary to press it too much: the air between the particles helps the roots to breathe.
In the end, A second layer of non -woven fabric spread over the ground and covered with pine cortex. This coverage regulates humidity, protects from the cold and gives a more orderly appearance to the pot.
Someone also uses pieces of carbon active among the first layers: they help absorb smells and maintain the most healthy vase environment. It is not essential, but it is a small extra useful.
Required for layer drainage perfect for the Erica
Before starting, better to have everything at hand. Few materials are enough, but carefully chosen:
- Florous terracotta or resin vase (diameter 18–22 cm)
- Expanded clay (5 liter bag, less than € 3)
- Non -woven fabric (it is in rolls or sheets)
- Acidofile soil (specific for Azalee, Camelie, Rododendri)
- Fine sand (the one for aquariums is fine)
- Pine cortex (for light mulch)
- Pieces of active carbon (optional, but recommended)
A year ago, on a windy terrace, this method was tried on six vases: after the winter, five plants out of six were still in full form. And without traces of rot.
Quick steps to prepare the vase
After collecting everything you need, the procedure takes less than 15 minutes per plant. Here’s what to do:
- Spread a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot (3–4 cm)
- Place A sheet of non -woven fabric above the clay
- Fill for two thirds with Acidophile soil and sand
- Plant the Erica, paying attention to the roots
- Cover the surface with A second sheet of non -woven fabric
- Add pine cortex To mourn
At this point, a first light watering is sufficient, avoiding wetting too much. The ground will settle in the following days.
Errors to avoid with the vessel in pot
Even with the best intentions, certain mistakes often repeat themselves. And they can compromise the health of the plant, especially in pots.
- Use too large vases: the wet soil compacts and suffocates the roots
- Forget the drainage holes: water stagnates and causes rotting
- Exposed to the direct sun in the central hours: the Erica burns easily
- Choose a generic soil: too limestone for its needs
- Water every day: common error, better to check the humidity
- Leave the vase in full wind: dries the plant too quickly and stressed
After all, it takes little to avoid these problems. It only takes a little attention and some precautions.
When to place it and how to keep it healthy
The ideal time to plant the Eric in the pot is between the end of September and the mid -October. The climate is still mild, but not too hot, and the roots have time to stabilize before winter.
In the cold months, if the vase is small, it is better to move it to a repaired corner or cover it with a breathable fabric. Erica resists well, but the roots fear sudden geloni. In the spring, it can be moved to a brighter area, provided that it is not too exposed.
As for maintenance, it is not complicated. Remove the dry inflorescences, check that no molds are form in the soil and ventilate the pot once a month by raising the mulch. A sprinkling of fertilizer for acidophile every 40 days, from March to June, is enough to keep it vigorous.
Over time, you learn to understand the Erica at a glance: if the leaves begin to dry out of the base, it means that something is wrong.
But with the right drainage, these signals become increasingly rare.
Photo © Stock.adobe and Ai
FOLLOW CASTLI NEWS ON
