In beauty salons, hands rest under LED lights as the varnish hardens rapidly, gaining shine and resistance. A routine gesture for many people has become synonymous with care and convenience. But the recent prohibition of TPO in gel varnishes by the European Union, in force since September 1.
TPO: The forbidden ingredient
Gel nail products containing Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphine Oxide, or TPO, have been removed from the market in all European Union countries. The substance, used to accelerate gel polymerization in ultraviolet light, was considered potentially cancer and harmful to fertility and embryonic development.
The measure, applied in Portugal by Infarmed, had already been communicated by the European Commission on 4 August. Although not surprising the attentive professionals, the halls suffered financial losses due to unusable stock and the need to purchase new products. According to SIC Notícias, those who already used TPO -free varnishes became less affected.
ACRILTS AND CONTACT ALLERGIES
The TPO is not, however, the only worrying ingredient. Dermatologist Margarida Gonçalo, director of the ULS dermatology service of Coimbra and university professor, explains that the absorption of the substance by the body is reduced, but that studies indicate possible effects on fertility and embryonic development.
According to the same source, the acrylates present in gel varnishes continue to cause contact allergies in more than 4% of women who consult experts, which can cause redness, vesicles, peeling and painful fissures in the fingers, and limit future medical or dental treatments.
Repeated exposure to LED or ultraviolet light for gel hardening further increases the risk of skin cancer.
Higher risk professionals
Nail aesthetics workers are particularly exposed due to daily contact with potentially allergenic substances.
A 2019 study published in the Portuguese Journal of Occupational Health indicated that about 80% of skin tests for work -related contact dermatitis involved professionals in this area.
The presence of homemade kits in the market further increases the risk for those who try to apply gel varnish without proper experience or certification.
Persistent risks even without TPO
Even without TPO, the risks remain. According to Margarida Gonçalo, the continued use of gel varnish can cause deformations, thinner or brittle nails, or onicolisa, a situation in which the nail partially or fully pierce the bed, manifesting with yellowish coloration. This condition is difficult to treat and may take months or years to recover.
As stated by the high number of cases of allergies and prolonged exposure to UV or LED light, the expert argues that these procedures should be the target of greater regulation and information about risks for consumers and professionals.
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