If we want to choose the right lipstick color, we first need to determine our skin tone. To do this, it is worth performing a simple test: apply two different foundations – cool and warm – on two halves of the face and check which one gives the skin a natural glow. This is a method used by professional make-up artists, allowing you to quickly determine the right direction in choosing colors.
Dermatologists and cosmetologists emphasize that skin with cool undertones – with a touch of pink and blue – works best with raspberry, cherry or fuchsia shades. Skin with a warmer character, with a hint of gold or olive, harmonizes with lipsticks in shades of coral, peach or red with an orange accent.
However, choosing a lipstick does not end with skin analysis. Hair color plays an equally important role. Blondes with fair skin gain freshness thanks to pastel pinks and subtle beigesbrunettes with dark hair can reach for deep reds and burgundyand red hair harmonizes beautifully with the shades peach and copper. The hairstyle also matters – short, geometric cuts go well with bold, matte colors, while long, wavy hair emphasizes the delicacy of transparent lip glosses.
Lipstick should also be consistent with the entire styling, but not necessarily the same color. Red lipstick combined with classic black gives elegance, while nude combined with pastels emphasizes subtlety.. An interesting fact is that a study conducted by Harvard Business School in 2013 showed that the color red – also on the lips – increases the perceived attractiveness of women in the eyes of men. Therefore, the choice of lipstick has not only an aesthetic but also a psychological dimension.
Choosing the right shade of lipstick has been the subject of scientific research on the perception of attractiveness and age for years. In 2017, a team of researchers from Université Grenoble-Alpes published a paper titled: “Facial Contrast Is a Cross-Cultural Cue for Perceiving Age”, which showed that an increase in the redness of the lips and their lightness increased the assessment of attractiveness and influenced the perceived femininity. In other words – the more expressive the lips, the younger and healthier the face appears. This discovery became the basis for contemporary recommendations by make-up artists, who emphasize the role of the lip-skin contrast in creating an image.
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The color of lipstick can be considered a subtle rejuvenating filter – a properly selected shade gives the face freshness, energy and lightness. The most expressive effect can be achieved thanks to colors that increase the contrast between the lips and the skin. Classic red in a cool tone adds elegance and visually illuminates the face, coral and raspberry pink emphasize the natural warmth of the skin, and nude shades with a delicate pink accent give a subtle, harmonious look. It is important that the color does not “disappear” against the skin, but clearly enlivens it – it is this play of contrasts that makes the face look younger.
The formula of the lipstick itself is equally important. Semi-matte and satin finishes give the lips three-dimensionality, avoiding a flattening effect that can age them. Products enriched with caring ingredients – hyaluronic acid, shea butter or plant oils – improve the appearance of the lips and at the same time moisturize them, which is particularly important in the case of mature skin.
The greatest risk occurs with very cool skin, especially when blue veins or natural bruising around the lips are visible. In this case, intense orange or fiery red can emphasize this effect, giving the face a tired look. Shades with a hint of cherry or magenta work much better in this case, as they balance the cool tone of the skin and give the lips freshness. A similar problem applies to olive and yellowish skin – cool red can then be too contrasting, making it look alien and artificial. In such cases, it is worth reaching for warm reds with a touch of coral or brick, which naturally blend with the complexion.
The next group are people with very fair skin and delicate facial features. Too intense, saturated red may then dominate the whole, creating a mask effect. Instead, it is better to choose more subdued shades – subdued reds, raspberry pinks or subtle burgundy shades. It is also worth remembering the role of lip liner, which allows you to make your lips expressive without the color dominating too much.
Red lipstick at office work or during business meetings may be perceived as too strong, especially if the rest of the makeup is minimalist. In such situations, wine, raspberry or nude shades with a slight pink accent work better. In turn, for evening outings or ceremonial occasions, intense red regains its place, emphasizing the character of the styling and adding self-confidence.
In Japanese culture for many years red lips were reserved for geishas and symbolized status and uniqueness. In Europe, however, red lips became iconic only in the 20th century, thanks to movie stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth. Today, it remains one of the most recognizable elements of makeup, but its strength lies in its skillful adjustment to individual beauty features.
