When the subject is natural skin aginganother factor comes into play: the pore dilation. In short, it is a condition in which follicular ostia, that is, small openings in the skin through which hair and sebum exit, become more visible.
HAS CNNthe biomedical Thiago Martinsmaster in Aesthetic Medicine, explains that this occurs due to factors such as sebaceous production, thickening of keratin around the follicle, loss of skin elasticity and accumulation of impurities. “Although it is a normal physiological characteristic, excessive pore dilation can compromise the uniformity and texture of the skin”, he comments.
What is the connection between enlarged pores and advancing age?
With aging, there is a progressive reduction in elastin, proteins essential for the support and firmness of the skin. “This loss of structure causes the pores, previously firmly “shaped” by the dermal matrix, to become more evident and appear to be dilated”, he says.
It is common that, with the decrease in collagen, the walls surrounding the hair follicle lose their resistance and retraction capacity. “As a result, the pore opening loses its firm contour and begins to expand, creating the appearance of “open pores” and irregularities. Furthermore, the skin tends to become thinner and less vibrant, which further accentuates this perception”, he comments.
Pore dilation in mature skin compared to young skin
Thiago also details that there is a difference in the way enlarged pores manifest themselves in more mature skin, compared to younger skin, prone to oiliness and acne.
“In young and oily women, enlarged pores are generally associated with excess sebum and follicular obstruction, being more common in the T-zone of the face. In mature skin, the predominant factor is sagging and loss of elasticity, which gives the pores a more oval and irregular appearance, especially on the cheeks”, he says.
However, regardless of age, sun exposure is a risk factor for the increase in the phenomenon. “Ultraviolet radiation (UV) is one of the main agents of collagen and elastin degradation. Chronic sun exposure accelerates photoaging, leading to sagging and increased thickness of the stratum corneum, factors that contribute to the dilation of pores. Furthermore, heat and sweat stimulate the production of sebum, which can also contribute to follicular obstruction and dilation.”
Can the use of makeup worsen the appearance of dilated poles?
The answer is yes. Even though makeup gives the sensation of more “correct” and “smooth” skin, prolonged use can make the situation worse, especially when comedogenic or difficult-to-remove products are frequently used.
“The accumulation of makeup residue inside the pores favors obstruction and local inflammation, which increases the appearance of dilation. Furthermore, inadequate cleaning and the use of very dense textures can further highlight the irregularities of the skin surface”, says the dermatologist Lucas Miranda has CNN.
Active ingredients in anti-aging treatment
According to the professional, several assets have double action in this sense. Retinol, for example, is one of the most effective, as it stimulates cell renewal and collagen production, reducing sagging and unclogging pores.
“Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, promote gentle chemical exfoliation and reduce oiliness. Niacinamide and biomimetic peptides also help improve skin texture and uniformity”, he explains.
In addition, the market also offers several aesthetic procedures that simultaneously treat aging and enlarged pores.
“They are quite effective when carried out under medical advice. Technologies such as fractionated laser, microneedling with drug delivery, fractional radiofrequency and promote tissue renewal, collagen stimulation and uniformity of the skin surface, treating both sagging and pore dilation. The combination of these methods is often customized according to the skin’s type and needs”, he states.
The importance of a preventative routine
A preventive routine should include adequate hygiene, daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen, antioxidants (such as vitamin C and niacinamide), and retinoids at night to stimulate cell renewal.
“In addition, regular hydration and periodic dermatological monitoring are essential to adjust products according to skin changes over time. This continuous approach preserves firmness, improves texture and prevents both premature aging and enlarged pores”, concludes Lucas.
