Mineral white wines: the essence of terroir in the glass

Some grape varieties, combined with specific regions, have become global references in this style.


One of the great virtues of mineral white wines is their ability to age

White wines, in general, convey a feeling of freshness to the drinker; some more, and this is essentially due to what has been called the “minerability” of the wine.

The truth is that mineral white wines today occupy a prominent place in the imagination of wine lovers and professionals. Elegant, precise and often described as “terroir wines”, they arouse curiosity precisely because they evoke sensations that seem to go beyond fruit and technique, referring to earth, stone, salt and purity. But what, after all, gives minerality to a white wine? Despite popular belief, the minerals present in the soil do not pass directly into the wine in sufficient quantities to generate flavor. Minerality is, in fact, a complex sensorial construction, resulting from the interaction between high acidity, low pH, certain aromatic compounds — especially linked to sulfur — and a texture in the mouth that conveys tension, salivation and freshness. It is a perception born of balance and austerity, often associated with colder climates, poor soils and low-interventionist winemaking practices. We must bear in mind that terroir plays a fundamental role in this expression. Limestone, granite, volcanic or shale soils tend to produce grapes with greater natural acidity and less aromatic exuberance, favoring more linear, deep wines with a dry finish. Winemaking also influences: fermentations in stainless steel, restrained use of wood and prolonged contact with fine lees help to preserve the purity and texture that reinforce the mineral sensation. It is not a specific aroma, but a tactile and gustatory impression that resembles wet stone, chalk, shell, salt or even cold smoke.

Some grape varieties, combined with specific regions, have become global references in this style. In France, Chablis Chardonnay is perhaps the greatest symbol of minerality, shaped by Kimmeridgian limestone soils and a cold climate, resulting in tense, austere and long-lasting wines. Still in the country, Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, especially in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, combines vibrant acidity, citrus notes and a minerality that often evokes flint and chipped stone. In the French south, varieties such as Picpoul de Pinet also stand out for their salinity and freshness.

In Spain, Albariño from Galicia, especially from Rías Baixas, expresses in an exemplary way the minerality associated with granite soils and maritime influence, with vibrant, saline and extremely gastronomic wines. Verdejo de Rueda, when vinified with a focus on acidity and without excess wood, can also reveal a marked mineral character. Italy offers notable examples such as Vermentino, particularly from Sardinia, Liguria and coastal Tuscany, where granite soils and proximity to the sea impart saline and stony notes. Another highlight is Timorasso, from Piedmont, a grape with great structure and acidity that produces deep mineral wines, capable of evolving for a long time in the bottle.

In Portugal, minerality finds fertile ground in the granite soils of the north of the country. Alvarinho from Monção and Melgaço, in Vinho Verde, combines concentration, freshness and a clear minerality, which increases with some time in the bottle. Grapes such as Loureiro and Azal Branco, when well worked, also reveal tense and mineral profiles, especially in drier and more precise styles. In Greece, the Assyrtiko of Santorini occupies an almost mythical place. Grown in poor volcanic soils and under extreme conditions of wind and drought, it produces wines of sharp acidity, depth and an intense minerality, often described as saline and volcanic.

One of the great virtues of mineral white wines is their aging capacity. Unlike purely aromatic and fruity whites, these wines have structure, acidity and balance that allow them to evolve over many years. Over time, the fresh fruit gives way to more complex notes of honey, dried fruits, herbs, wax and hot stone, without losing the backbone of freshness. Examples of Chablis, Assyrtiko or Timorasso can age for a decade or more, revealing new layers of complexity.

The serving temperature is essential for these qualities to be fully expressed. Lighter and more direct mineral wines tend to perform best between 6 and 8 degrees Celsius, while more structured and longer-lasting versions gain expression between 8 and 10 degrees. Serving them excessively cold can hide aromas and textures, reducing the perception of minerality. As the wine warms slightly in the glass, its complexity reveals itself more clearly.

At the table, mineral white wines are natural partners for gastronomy. Its acidity and tension act as a true connecting thread between dishes and flavors. Seafood, especially oysters, shellfish, scallops and raw or grilled fish, find an almost perfect harmony in these wines. Citrus-influenced preparations, light Japanese and Asian cuisine, fresh and goat cheeses, as well as delicate risottos and herb-based dishes also benefit from precision and mineral freshness, which cleanse the palate and enhance the ingredients.

In Brazil, the production of white wines with a mineral profile has been growing consistently, driven by the search for identity and quality. The southern regions of the country offer especially favorable conditions, thanks to the altitude, temperature ranges and soils of basalt and granite origin. Serra Gaúcha, despite being historically associated with sparkling wines, has revealed good examples of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay with vibrant acidity and mineral expression when harvested early and vinified with restraint. Planalto Catarinense, with higher altitude vineyards, stands out for the production of tense and elegant whites, while Campanha Gaúcha and Serra do Sudeste, with their poorer and well-drained soils, have shown great potential for wines with a more austere and mineral profile.

Among the grapes that best express this character in Brazil are Sauvignon Blanc, due to its natural acidity and aromatic freshness, Chardonnay vinified without excess wood and varieties such as Riesling Itálico and Pinot Gris in regions with a colder climate. In this context, there is news of successful cultivation of the Greek variety Assyrtiko, in Serra do Sudeste (RS). The diversity of terroirs and the technical maturity of Brazilian producers indicate that minerality is not an exclusive privilege of the Old World. On the contrary, it is beginning to assert itself as one of the most promising paths for Brazilian white wines, combining identity, elegance and gastronomic vocation. Cheers!

*This text does not necessarily reflect the opinion of Jovem Pan.

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