What diseases attack tomatoes? How to protect bushes against fungal attacks?
. It is at this time of year that you should carefully observe the plants and, if necessary, act immediately. are most often attacked by fungal diseases. They develop as a result of attack by fungi that may be transmitted by pests or present in rotten leaves and old fruit. Planting tomatoes too tightly encourages the spread of diseases between the bushes. Weather conditions also influence the development of fungal diseases. Too high humidity, lack of proper circulation in the low layers of plants and too little sunlight may increase the occurrence of diseases.
One of the most common is dry leaf rot. It is caused by attacks by various fungi, including Phoma or Alternaria. The first symptom of dry leaf rot in tomatoes is discoloration. . It happens that raised black dots are visible on the surface of the stains. These are nothing more than fungal spores. Dry leaf rot is a serious disease. The dark spots enlarge and eventually merge together, causing damage to the plant’s tissues. As a result, tomato bushes stop growing and bearing fruit. In the fight against this disease, you must react immediately. A proven method is spraying plants that directly attack dangerous fungi. Gardeners recommend calcium sprays. Calcium-magnesium nitrate may also be effective. The solutions should be sprayed thoroughly throughout the plants, from the leaves to the lower stems.
A farmer friend showed me a natural spray for dry rot of tomatoes. It removes the disease and the tomatoes begin to ripen again
Natural spraying is also helpful in the fight against fungal plant diseases. Their secret are ingredients with fungicidal properties. Sprays based on baking soda are most often recommended. However, in the case of dry leaf rot, spraying with tea tree oil may be effective. In a bucket, mix 2 liters of water with a few tablespoons of soap, then add a few drops of tea tree oil. Mix everything thoroughly and spray the tomato bushes. The soap will prevent the spray from running off with the water and drying too quickly. Tea tree oil is one of the strongest antiseptics. It has antifungal properties and removes fungal spores. Effectively protects plants against disease attacks. Spray your tomatoes with it once a week and they will grow and ripen like crazy.
What exactly is dry top rot? It’s a physiological problem, not an infectious disease
Although the name “rot” may evoke associations with an infection, it is worth knowing that dry top rot is not a disease caused by fungi or bacteria. It’s a physiological disorder, which means that it is not contagious and it does not spread from one bush to another. Its characteristic symptom is the appearance of a watery spot on the lower part of the fruit, on the opposite side of the stem. Over time, this stain darkens, becomes brown or black, and its surface becomes dry, leathery and slightly sunken. This distinguishes it from fungal diseases that usually cause wet rot. Unfortunately, fruits with such changes are not suitable for eating and should be removed.
Why do tomatoes lack calcium even when it is in the soil?
The main cause of dry top rot is calcium deficiency in the fruit. Interestingly, the problem rarely results from the lack of this element in the substrate. Most often it’s about difficulties with its transport inside the plant. Calcium moves with water, so weather conditions and irrigation methods become crucial. Long-lasting heat, especially at temperatures above 30°C, causes the plant to transpire (evaporate water) intensively through the leaves to cool itself. As a result, most of the water with calcium ends up in the leaves, not in the developing fruit. The problem is compounded by irregular watering – periods of drought interspersed with excess water impair the ability of the roots to absorb nutrients.
Another factor is improper fertilization. Excess nitrogen, potassium or magnesium in the soil may block the absorption of calcium by the root system. Over-fertilization with nitrogen is particularly harmful, as it causes rapid growth of the green parts of the plant. The dense foliage then begins to “compete” with the fruit for valuable ingredients, including calcium.
How to properly apply calcium sprays? The time of day and weather matter
When the first symptoms appear, the quickest solution is foliar spraying with calcium preparations, such as calcium nitrate. For the treatment to be effective, it must be performed in appropriate conditions. The best time to spray is evening or early morningwhen the air temperature is moderate. Optimal calcium absorption by leaves and fruits occurs at temperatures between 12 and 25°C. Avoid spraying in full sun and heat, as the solution will quickly evaporate and the plant may burn.
Before the procedure, always check the weather forecast – choose a windless and rainless day. Spraying should be carried out thoroughly, generously covering not only the leaves, but especially the fruit buds and growing fruit. Calcium is an element that moves poorly inside the plant, so it must be delivered directly where it is needed. During periods of heat and drought, the treatment should be repeated systematically, even every 3-7 days, until the problem disappears.
