The green becomes darker with every curve, next to the street, dralle tree trunks are stacked, behind it blooms tender and white the feather-light floating beard. There are two officials at the border station to Montenegro: “Yes, of course there are bears here. They come here every fifth day and drink from the fountain,” says the larger of the two and points to a fountain trough a few meters away. “And the little bears play more often back there,” he adds, pointing to a light area behind the leaf wall, through which sunstroke pierce.