How to care for the December beetle in spring and summer? This is a very important time
The Christmas cactus, also called the Christmas cactus, is one of the few potted plants that blooms in autumn and winter. It often showers flowers around Christmas, hence its name. Properly cared for, the plant may also bloom in early spring. However, this does not always happen. Spring and summer are the time when the beetroot grows and needs proper care. Contrary to popular opinion, summer is not a time of rest, but of increased fertilization, which should be continued until early autumn. so that the December plant can prepare for the growing season.
In spring and summer, the plant should be placed in a place with diffused sunlight and at a temperature of about 25 degrees Celsius. Avoid bright sunlight, which may burn the leaves. During this time, the grove should be watered moderately. The soil in the pot must be constantly moist. During this period, it is worth using multi-component fertilizers that will strengthen the root system and stimulate growth processes. A good solution for spring and summer fertilization are ready-made mixtures for cacti. The use of nutritional supplements should be limited at the beginning. During this period, the plant will enter a season of rest and preparation for flowering.
Chop and mix with water. Homemade grove fertilizer for use in spring and summer
You can use homemade, natural conditioners. They are fast, cheap and effective. Banana peels will work well in the case of December fungus. They contain large amounts of phosphorus and potassium, which stimulate growth processes and strengthen the plant’s protective system. To prepare this conditioner, you need to peel the bananas and cut the peels into small pieces. Then put them in a large jar and pour warm water over them. Set aside for one day. After this time, dilute the decoction with water in 1:1 proportions and water the grodnik regularly. Applying fertilizers in spring and throughout the summer will keep the plant strong and ready for the flowering period in good condition.
The secret of the December flowering plant lies in its biological clock
Intensive fertilization in summer is the foundation, but the real flowering switch for the December plant is its internal, biological mechanism. Szlumbergera is the so-called short day plant. This means that the signal for the formation of buds is not the calendar, but the appropriate proportion of light and darkness. For this process to be initiated, the December bird needs a period in which the day lasts no longer than 8-10 hours and the night provides it with at least 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness.
This key stage, lasting from 4 to 6 weeks, is called induction sleep. During this time, the plant goes into preparation for flowering. Importantly, this process can be easily disturbed by artificial lighting. If the light is on for a long time in the evening in the room where your garden plant is, the plant may never receive the signal to set buds, even if it is in perfect condition.
Light and cold – a duo that forces the December tree to bloom
To effectively induce flowering, it is necessary to provide the December plant not only with a shorter day, but also with an appropriate temperature from September to October. The ideal conditions are to move the plant to a cooler room where the temperature varies within a range from 12 to 15 degrees Celsius. Such cold, combined with limited access to light, is a clear signal for the plant that it is time to prepare for flowering.
The best position during this period will be the windowsill of an eastern window or a place in an unheated room, where the plant will be provided with bright but diffused light. It is important to carefully monitor these conditions for about 4-6 weeks. After the first buds appear, you can move the plant to a warmer place, but do it carefully so as not to cause a thermal shock.
Does your grove not bloom despite fertilization? Check for these errors
If you provide the plant with nutrients and it still does not produce flowers, the reason is most likely due to improper care in the fall. One of the most common mistakes, apart from the lack of a rest period, is moving or even turning the potwhen the first buds appear on the shoots. The plant is extremely sensitive to changes in the angle of light and, in response to stress, it can shed all its flower buds. Also avoid placing it in drafty places or in the immediate vicinity of a radiator.
Another reason may be that the pot is too large. Grudnik, like other epiphytes, likes to have slightly cramped conditions. If it has too much space, it focuses all its energy on expanding the root system, not on flowering. The problem may also lie in improper watering during the rest period – both excessive dryness of the substrate and its constant moisture can effectively block the process of bud formation.
