The low temperatures and high humidity of autumn in the mountains of Rio Grande do Sul and Santa Catarina increased the harvest of wild mushrooms in southern Brazil, especially Porcini, a species of the genus Boletus widely valued in haute cuisine.
The demand moves extractivists, chefs and tourists in forest and forestry regions of Pinus. , originally from cold regions of North America and Europe, adapted to the south of the country mainly for the production of wood, resin and cellulose.
In the municipality of São Francisco de Paula (RS), the company Fungaia plans to harvest more than a ton of the delicacy between May and July. The goal is to repeat the previous year’s performance after mapping around 8 thousand hectares of mountainous areas.
According to businessman Franco Martinelli, all areas used have prior authorization and follow specific environmental criteria.
“It’s a race against time. The areas we explore are destined for forestry, so we need to organize the work before the forestry teams manage it. We previously map out the locations that we call forestry plots and go searching”, he states.
Freshness and logistical challenge
As it is a highly perishable food that is valued mainly fresh, logistical speed has become a decisive factor in serving specialized restaurants in Southeastern Brazil.
After harvesting, the mushrooms need to be shipped within two business days to maintain texture, aroma and quality until consumption.
Part of the production also goes through drying and processing processes, increasing durability and allowing sales throughout the year.
Gastronomic tourism
The search for experiences linked to nature has also boosted wild mushroom hunting tourism in the southern region of the country.
At Parador Cambará do Sul, for example, visitors travel through forested areas in the early hours of the morning accompanied by businessman Altemir Pessali, considered one of the national references on the subject.
The activity is seasonal and depends on weather conditions, as some species appear for a few weeks throughout the year. The proposal seeks to bring tourists closer to regional biodiversity and knowledge about wild fungi.
At the end of the experience, participants can also taste the mushrooms found during the activity.
Specialized labor
Even though it may seem simple, mushroom harvesting requires technical training and precise identification of the species found in the field.
In addition to Porcini, the Serra do Sul do Brasil also produces wild varieties similar to shimeji and champignons, as well as toxic species, such as Amanita muscaria, popularly known for the look associated with the Mario Bros. character.
The training work for extractivists has the support of researcher Jefferson Timm, author of the book Primavera Fungi. For around eight years, he has been working on mapping productive areas, identifying species and providing guidance on the management and quality of wild mushrooms.
