Adidas Originals/Reproduction x
Oaxaca Slip-On controversies are not even on sale yet, but are already in the sights of the Mexican authorities.
New German sports brand sandals are inspired by a traditional model with indigenous roots, without recognizing the original authors, the Mexican authorities say, who require the suspension of the sale of the product.
The adidas sportswear brand was accused of cultural appropriation by authorities from the state of Oaxaca, Mexico. According to the local government, a model of shoes launched this week is the copy of a traditional style of sandals in the region, known as huarache.
The model Oaxaca Slip-Onwhose name refers to the same state, was prepared by Willy ChavarriaAmerican fashion designer of Mexican origin, in collaboration with Adidas. But according to local authorities, the company and the designer did not seek to obtain authorization or recognized the original authors.
“Adidas, together with designer Willy Chavarria, appropriated From a unique design of the traditional sandals of the population of Villa Hidalgo Yalalag, ”said Mexican deputy Isaías Carranza on Wednesday, referring to an Oaxaca village marked by the strong indigenous presence and culture.
Sites specialized in the tennis market and other sports shoes had reported the launch of sandals at a Adidas event in Puerto Rico. The model was described as inspired by the Huarache sandals and a tribute to the Mexican roots of Chavaria.
“Huarache has always been a symbol of inheritance and identity,” said the designer, according to Sneaker Freaker. “I wanted to honor this legacy and take it forward.”
“Immediate suspension” of the product
Leading the reaction against Adidas, Oaxaca’s governor, Salomón Jara, pointed out that footwear is a “reinterpreted Huarache model” at a press conference while showing images of the sandals launched by the German brand. It also threatened to start a legal action against Chavaria, with the participation of representatives of Yalalag.
“This It’s not just a design, it’s culture, history and identity From an original people and we will not allow it to be treated as a commodity!, said the governor in a video published on network X.
In turn, the Secretariat of Culture and Arts of Oaxaca highlighted, in a statement, that the adoption without consent of cultural elements of the original peoples for commercial purposes constitutes “Violation of their collective rights”. The body also requested the “immediate suspension of marketing” of the new model and the opening of a process of dialogue and repair of the losses of the Yalalag community, as well as the public recognition of the origin of the design.
One of the options for the Oaxaca government would be to submit a formal complaint to the Mexican Institute of Industrial Property (IMPI), the Federal Agency for the Intellectual Property of Mexico.
Adidas has not yet issued a public statement about the controversy. The sneaker has not yet been on sale and Adidas has not announced a date for commercial launch.
Sensitive theme in Mexico
In recent years, Mexico has denounced cultural appropriation and unauthorized use of the art of its indigenous peoples by major brands and designers around the world.
In 2023, it was the turn of the Chinese company Sheinof cultural appropriation of elements of culture and identity of the people Nahua, the state of Puebla. At the time, the Mexican government complained of economic and moral damage to this segment of the population.
“This is a principle of ethical consideration that, local and globally, forces us to draw attention and put into public discussion a theme that cannot be postponed: protecting the rights of the original peoples that have historically been invisible,” said the Mexican Government Secretariat of Culture at the time.
Others accused of plagiarism and cultural appropriation of Mexican peoples in the last six years include French designer Isabel Marant and luxury brands Zimmermann e.
Global discussion
Similar accusations also affected the image of Prada in July. The Italian fashion house debuted, in the Walk of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, low sandals described as “leather sandals”.
For Indian fashion critics, artisans and politicians, it was a copy of traditional Kolhapuri – Handcrafted sandals that bear the name of the city of Kolapur, in Maharashtra, western India, and date back to the twelfth century.
For over 25 years, developing countries, and indigenous peoples have been pressured for intellectual property laws that protect better, from exploitation by third parties, flora, fauna, traditional knowledge and local cultural heritage.
More recently, however, the clamor has grown, including the United Nations (UN), so that companies that commit this type of abuse in the fashion industry are responsible.
