Oleander, a resistant plant and friend of terraces, but when the cold weather arrives the music changes. There is a precise threshold, a little secret that makes the difference between a lush flowering and a vase that slowly empties.
Who cultivates thepotted oleander he knows it, or he soon discovers it: the cold, especially the sudden one, can put even this plant into crisis which seems invincible in summer. Its shiny leaves, green all year round, betray a Mediterranean nature that tolerates scorching heat well but not frost. It happens like this: all it takes is a colder night, a wind that suddenly turns, and the risk of damage becomes real. It is not just a question of aesthetics, but of the survival of the plant itself. Yet, with some concrete attention (and a small dose of luck), it is possible to survive even the city winter without unpleasant surprises.
Even those who live in the city, perhaps in a north-facing condominium or in a balcony house, immediately notice how the position of the pot affects the health of the oleander. A windy terrace, for example, amplifies the sensation of cold. Just think of those January mornings, when the ice on the windshield reminds you that the night was harder than expected. Well, the same thing goes for the roots of the oleander which, being in pots, are less protected than in the open field. Therefore, understand what the critical temperature it becomes really fundamental.
Potted oleander: the minimum temperature that must never exceed
There is a threshold that those who grow oleanders should keep in mind: 5°C. Below this temperature, the plant begins to suffer. In reality, the adult and well-acclimatized oleander can tolerate short light frosts (up to 0°C, rarely even -2°C if the cold is not prolonged), but the real danger arises when the thermometer remains below 5°C for several days. The risk? Damage to young branches, leaves darkening and falling, stunted growth. It is often seen in spring: new buds that do not open, or flowers that remain small and dull.
It should be added that a small vase cools faster. Balconies facing north or without shelter are treacherous: the wind accelerates the dispersion of heat and the soil turns into a sort of “icicle” for the roots. If the vase directly touches the flooring (concrete, cold tiles), the situation worsens. A small observation: in the Po Valley areas, humidity accentuates the negative effects of the cold.
How to protect oleander from the winter cold
It’s not enough to bring the vase close to a wall. A few more precautions are needed, especially in northern cities or where the wind gives no respite. A practical first step: choose a large enough vase, possibly made of terracotta or thick plastic. By doing so, the roots remain isolated for longer. Even better if the vase is slightly raised from the ground (with feet or wooden boards): it doesn’t take much to limit direct contact with the freezing ground.
Then there are the “artisanal” protections:
- Non-woven fabric, to wrap around the pot and the lower parts of the plant.
- Temporary covers with thick cardboard or old blankets.
- Mulch with bark or dry leaves, useful for protecting the collar.
- Move the vase to a sheltered place, even just for the coldest nights.
- Avoid saucers full of water: stagnation can damage the roots more than the cold itself.
For those who have little space, sometimes it is enough to move the vase under a balcony or place it next to a south-facing wall. On some clear days, even simple winter sunlight can make a difference.
Common mistakes (and some more tricks)
A classic mistake? Leave the vase in a corner exposed to the wind thinking that the cold is only a matter of degrees. In reality, the wind dries out and lowers the perceived temperature. Also pay attention to irrigation: it is better to reduce drastically in winter, always avoiding stagnation. Another frequent oversight: not checking the health of the roots before winter. If the soil is too old or compact, light repotting before autumn is better.
Those who love details can add a little extra strategy. For example, inserting a few stones between the vase and the flooring helps to limit the cold from below. Some also use small balcony greenhouses, practical for protecting multiple plants together without upsetting the daily routine. Large investments are not always needed: it is often a question of observation and small gestures, those that are learned over time or by talking to those who have been cultivating for years.
When the season turns towards spring, a gesture, a quick look at the new leaves is enough to understand if the oleander has survived the winter unscathed. And maybe, with a little luck, see the first buds appear just when you don’t expect them.
You might also be interested in: Oleander safe all winter: here’s what you need to do now
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