Storm Kristin left its mark on the city, forced adjustments in pace and imposed unexpected renovations on some homes. But it also brought a simple certainty: it’s time to go back. Returning to restaurants, taverns and seafood restaurants is part of everyday life in Leiria, it supports those who work there and gives shape to a table culture made of habit, proximity and continuity.
Between a “Poached Egg with peas”, “Corvina Rice with Shrimp”, “Cod Pataniscas”, a “Roasted Kid”, seafood served by weight or snacks that continue throughout the afternoon, this is a route, based on the Boa Cama Boa Mesa Guide and the 365 Tascas & Marisqueiras Guide, through the places where Leiria continues to sit at the table.
Walls
It was probably the most visited restaurant in Leiria, due to its panoramic location overlooking the surrounding fields. João Pereira, chef and owner of admits having had “a loss of around 300 thousand euros. We practically built a new room and this translated into a drop of around 70% in revenue, because only a very small part of the restaurant remained open”. Today, everything has been remodeled and the dining room looks “more attractive and much more comfortable.” The reopening took place on April 23rd and was attended by José Avillez, from the award-winning Belcanto, in Lisbon, where João Pereira worked, for a four-way dinner.
The “Poached egg with peas” and “Corvina rice with shrimp” are not on the menu. In terms of meat, the “Carré of wild boar with rosemary sauce”, the “Loin of veal from the Azores” and the “Lombo of venison” remain. There are also proposals for aged meat, grilled over coals, with emphasis on the “Entrecôte”, the “Tomahawk” and the “Empty from Australia 200 days”.
In addition to the reopening, the restaurant is preparing a solidarity action in the wake of the destruction caused by Storm Kristin. “Luís Gaspar, Louis Anjos and Samuel Mota will join us for a dinner designed to support associations in the region, particularly in terms of sports gyms and other structures. The idea is that it will take place in June and that it will be a dinner only with chefs from Leiria, in a logic of unity and mutual help”, reveals João Pereira, adding that “it will be a dinner so that we can raise funds to help, because we have suffered a lot, but there are many people who have suffered even more”. Average price: R$40.
Rua Cidade Colipo, Andreus. Tel. 244 032 138
Old House
The tradition begins as soon as you arrive at the table, with a tray of PDO cheeses and sausages from Salsicharia Os Lobinhos, in Borba, presented by weight and accompanied by a glass of sparkling wine. The menu is renewed frequently, supported by the creation of goats and ducks and a consistent commitment to organic products, whenever possible, in accordance with the kilometer zero philosophy. The wine cellar impresses with its breadth and diversity, with thousands of national and international references, including champagnes, sparkling wines and fortified wines, under the management of Ricardo Costa. In the starters, the “Ovos rotos with 5Jotas 100% acorn ham” are an unmissable signature.
In the kitchen, the chef Alina Abramiuc stands out in dishes such as “Cod Açorda with shrimp”, “Cod roasted over coals”, “Duck rice with dried fruits” and “Goat roasted in the oven”. Among the premium meats is the “Tomahawk Black Angus”, ideal for sharing. For desserts, the “Velvet à Casinha” and “Borralha do Lis” end the meal with identity. THE celebrates 28 years in July and extends the celebrations throughout the year. He was awarded a Silver Fork at the . Average price: €50.
Rua Professores Portelas, 23, Marrazes. Tel. 244 855 355
Mesa 15
It asserts itself as one of the most interesting tables in the region, with contemporary cuisine guided by seasonality. THE was born from the couple Ariana and Petr, with a professional career in England, in restaurants with chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, and is now focused on signature cuisine based on fresh, national and regional ingredients. Among the proposals there may be dishes such as “Salmon, kumquat orange, carrot, ginger” or “Quinta da Marinha duck, apple, endive, boulangère potato”. It works with fixed price menus for lunch and dinner. Average price: R$40.
Estrada da Estação, 12, Leiria. Tel. 244 040 554
Focus
The menu is based on seasonal products, so suggestions vary with each visit. The modern and creative kitchen of reflects the trajectory of César Vitorino, with influences from the places he passed through, from where he brought different techniques and flavors. Examples of this approach are the “Veal, cucumber and nori tartare”, the “Crab and lemon doughnut” or the “Skirt steak with almonds and tomato”. With just 36 seats, the restaurant is a regular meeting point for wine producers, with special attention to natural and biodynamic wines, as well as guest chefs. Finally, highlight the “Creamy sponge cake with olive oil ice cream”. Average price: R$30.
Rua Lino António, 40, fraction D, Cruz d’Areia, Leiria. Tel. 914 545 155
Matilde Noca
In a dead end street and off the most obvious routes, the has remained in operation for more than 30 years. The first offer is the view over Leiria Castle, an off-menu starter that prepares your appetite. Among the dishes to be tried, the “Roasted goat”, served with rice and often available as a dish of the day, and the “Bacalhau na tile”, accompanied by seafood onions. Finally, the “Farófias à Noca” are still unmissable. Average price: R$30.
Rua Martingil, 157, Marrazes, Leiria. Tel. 244 856 073
Nora’s House
Housed in an old mill, in Cortes, this charming house stands out for its green garden, covered terrace and proximity to the Lis River. The kitchen of it combines tradition and creativity, with regular new additions to the menu and classics that are constantly present, such as “Octopus à lagareiro”, “Homemade rooster cabidela”, “Supreme sea bream” and “Pheasant puff pastry”. The rustic atmosphere is accompanied by an extensive and careful wine cellar, with national and international references. Average price: R$35.
Largo José Marques da Cruz, 8, Cortes. Tel. 244 891 236
Cervejaria Marisqueira César
Cervejaria Marisqueira César
With a classic spirit and family roots, this brewery focuses on seafood as its central axis, without leaving out popular dishes that reinforce the informal character of the restaurant. Founded in Leiria in 1991, the maintains a strong connection with tradition, with seafood always alive and proposals designed to share. The menu gives special prominence to crab, prawns, chips and witches, also featuring more composed options such as seafood, “Tiger shrimp rice” and “Seafood Açorda”. Whenever the sea allows, excellent national products appear, such as coastal lobster, Berlengas barnacles and Portuguese spider crab. Outside of seafood, snacks play a complementary role. The space is divided between the interior with a relaxed atmosphere and the terrace. Average price: R$40.
Rua Miguel Torga, 171, Leiria. Tel. 244 814 092
João Gordo Brewery
Founded in 1984, this brewery and café is open from 10:30am to 2am. Nuno Lopes, chef and owner of helps you choose between the wide range of seafood and snacks, ideal to accompany a round of imperiales. Every day there is a featured snack, which can be either fried cuttlefish strips or oven-baked cheese, depending on the creativity of the kitchen. There are also shellfish, oysters, prawns, prawns and lobster and, from the land, woodpecker and gizzard. Try the “Golden Potatoes”, a type of broken eggs with just potatoes and egg, seasoned with salt and pepper, and ask for the original “Brisa do Lis”. For more complex dishes, both fish and meat, there is a well-stocked wine cellar. Average price: R$30.
Rua Dom Carlos I, 29, Leiria. Tel. 244 881 483
In Pocket from Gracinda
Gracinda started working there when she was 14 years old. At the time, the tavern was also a grocery store, owned by the sister. About two decades ago it passed into the hands of Gracinda and gained a new name. The space is small and simple, with room for just 30 people. If there is no table, there is always someone to sit at the counter. Only lunch and afternoon snacks are served. The menu features fried fish, such as stingray, horse mackerel and petingas, as well as generous “cod pataniscas”. Average price: R$20.
Rua Nossa Senhora da Encarnação, 3, Leiria. Tel. 244 833 754
Anastácio’s Tavern
Between tables with wooden chairs and benches, the walls of the they display hanging bicycles, a showcase full of seafood snacks and another with models of old cars. Lunch is not served here. The kitchen starts working at 4pm and only slows down after midnight. The menu is extensive and combines seafood, tapas, ham and cheese with more substantial options, such as “Ox Woodpecker”, “Roasted Cod” and “Grilled Squid”. “My grandfather, who was also called Anastácio, had a tavern. I’ve known how to make coffee and serve glasses of wine since I was little”, says Anastácio Batista, current owner. In this tavern “everything is made fresh” and, in addition to the dishes on the menu, there are off-the-list suggestions for regulars, such as “Fava beans with short ribs” or “Dobradinha with white beans”. “Breaded Mushrooms” are one of the specialties, alongside “Octopus Salad”, “Pork Ear”, “Breaded Chicken” and “Gizzards”. Alternatively, try the “Prego kitado”, with cheese and egg. Average price: R$25.
Rua Manuel Simões Maia, 514, Marrazes, Leiria. Tel. 244 837 263
