Portuguese restaurants continue to face a period of financial pressure, at a time when several businesspeople in the sector are warning of operational difficulties, increased costs and changes in consumption habits. Although new spaces continue to open in different areas of the country, cases of restaurants that close operations without much public visibility are also multiplying.
Among the best-known names in Portuguese cuisine who have spoken on the topic is chef Vítor Sobral. According to the pink news portal, the cook recently admitted to having made a “mistake” during the Covid-19 pandemic, a decision that he says he is still paying for financially.
Venting about the pandemic years
In an interview with the Brazilian channel Match Gastronomic, Vítor Sobral explained that he chose not to lay off employees during the most critical period of the pandemic. According to the same source, the chef had 128 employees at his service at the time. “I lost a small fortune,” said the cook, adding that he survived “with a price and a bill” that he continues to bear today. Sobral admits having made an emotional decision at a particularly delicate time for the sector.
Throughout the interview, the chef also acknowledged that business management was never his main vocation. Sobral stated that he learned “through bitter experiences” what he now knows about business and restaurants. “What I have in terms of virtuosity on the stove, I lack in management”, summarized the cook, explaining that many of his decisions were made through trial and error. The website explains that the entrepreneur considers to have developed management skills out of necessity and not through training.
Group expansion and defined limits
Currently, Vítor Sobral maintains restaurants in Lisbon and Cascais and has also expanded the group to São Paulo, in Brazil. Among the spaces associated with the chef are restaurants, such as Tasca da Esquina, Taberna da Esquina, Pão da Esquina, Oficina da Esquina and Carvoaria.
According to the same source, there is a common rule in several of the group’s concepts: avoid spaces with more than 100 seats. The cook considers that this size allows for greater operational control and proximity to the teams.
Other chefs also talk about difficulties
Vítor Sobral’s name appears alongside other well-known chefs who have warned of problems in the restaurant sector. Flash cites cases such as Rui Paula, José Avillez, Henrique Sá Pessoa and Ljubomir Stanisic, all associated with changes in strategy or recent restructuring.
In the case of Ljubomir Stanisic, writes the publication, the chef announced the sale of his restaurants to a Nepalese group. The economic context and rising costs continue to affect the sector, even in the face of less pessimistic official indicators.
VAT issue continues to divide opinions
The debate on VAT on restaurants also returned to the center of political discussions. According to the same source, the Minister of Finance, Joaquim Miranda Sarmento, classified the reduction in VAT applied in 2016 as a “massive error”.
The governor argues that the intermediate rate mainly benefits families with higher incomes. At the same time, the International Monetary Fund also expressed similar criticism regarding this fiscal measure.
Investment that took longer to yield results
Among Vítor Sobral’s business projects, Padaria da Esquina is identified as one of the biggest financial challenges. According to the publication, the chef admitted that he invested more money in this concept than in any other previous project. Sobral believed there was an immediate demand for naturally fermented bread, but recognized that the business’s growth ended up happening more slowly than he expected. According to the same source, the chef is constantly concerned about the quality of the food and the products served in his spaces.
The chef also spoke about the relationship with the Michelin Guide and assumed that he believed that some public criticism had contributed to a certain distance. Vítor Sobral believes that his restaurants ended up losing visibility within this circuit. Even so, the cook guarantees that his main objective is not to win Michelin stars. “I say what I think,” said the chef, adding that he continues to defend the teams and their positions directly.
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