An important term for lavender is approaching. Do not miss this procedure if you want it to bloom lush

by Andrea
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An important term for lavender is approaching. Do not miss this procedure if you want it to bloom lush

Lavender is a plant that does not forgive neglect. Lack of cutting quickly makes it losing its charm, and the bushes begin to lay down and look unattractive. That is why it is so important to know the appropriate dates and cutting methods.

Lavender is cut even twice a year. Gardeners indicate the three most important dates:

  • Spring (March-April)-it is a forming time that gives the plant shape and avoids the formation of a “bald nest” in the middle of the bush. Then we also remove shoots damaged by the winter.
  • Lato (July-September)-during flowering, fading inflorescences are cut. This stimulates lavender to flow again in the same season.
  • Autumn (mid -September) – replacement term for spring cutting. It promotes the hardening of the plant and preparing it for winter. It is important, however, not to delay the procedure, because young growths can be damaged by frosts.

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In spring or autumn, we shorten young, green shoots by half their length, forming a shrub in the shape of a ball. You have to be careful not to cut too deeply – into woody parts that grow back very poorly. Correct cutting It improves air circulation, prevents rotting the interior of the bush and provides light of each branch.

In the summer, we focus on removing faded inflorescences. We cut all the flower stalks along with lean fragmentswhile taking care of maintaining a spherical shape. Such a procedure stimulates lavender to flow again and makes the shrub more dense.

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Older and neglected shrubs can be rejuvenated with a radical cut. It involves shortening of shoots even about their length. It is best to do them in spring, every 4-5 years. Thanks to this, lavender will regain vitality and will decorate the garden again.

Forming the plant begins after planting. We shorten young cuttings by halfto stimulate them to release new shoots at the base. In the following years, we continue the forming cuts so that the bush has a compact, spherical habit.

See also:

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