Keselica, also known as kisielica or kysyłycia, is one of the the most recognizable dishes of Lemko cuisine. Its roots go back to the times when the menu was based on easily available, cheap and durable ingredients. Cereals, potatoes, cabbage, onion and garlic dominated on mountain farms. Meat appeared rarely, mainly on holidays.
Sour soups based on fermented grains were everyday life in many regions of Central and Eastern Europe, but the Lemko version is particularly distinctive. Keselica was traditionally made with oat leaven, which distinguished it from the more popular rye soups. Oats were widely cultivated in the mountains, resistant to more difficult climatic conditions and fit well into local agriculture.
The dish had a practical, but also cultural significance. It was present on tables on fasting days, during the winter months, and also during important family and religious events. In many homes it was served with potatoes a complete, warming meal.
Interestingly, the classic keselica did not contain meat or eggs. It was a frugal but extremely well-thought-out kitchen. The flavor was built with spices, fermentation and appropriate proportions.
At first glance, both dishes may seem similar – each of them is a light-colored, sour soup full of spices and garlic aroma. However, the differences become clear when you take a closer look at the ingredients and consistency.
The most important difference concerns the leaven. Traditional żurek is prepared with rye flour, while keselica is based on oats – formerly made with oat flour, today often made with flakes. This changes not only the taste but also the structure of the dish. Keselica is usually more delicate, creamier and milder in acidity.
Another issue is accessories. Classic żurek is associated with white sausage, smoked meat or egg. Keselica remains more economical in its original form. It is served with boiled potatoes, often garnished with onion. All attention is focused on the taste of the glaze itself.
The aromatic profile also has its own specificity. It is clearly visible in keselica a hint of cumin, bay leaf and garlic.
Preparing keselica is not complicated, but requires patience because the dish is fermented. It is the leaven that builds the flavor and determines the authentic character of the soup.
1. Oat sourdough
The basis is oats. Mountain oat flakes are most often used, as they ferment well and release flavor easily.
Pour the flakes into a vessel – preferably glass or stoneware – add garlic, spices and lukewarm boiled water. The whole thing should be covered, but not tightly closed. Fermentation requires access to air.
The dish is left in a warm place for a few days. During this time, a characteristic, slightly sour aroma develops. After fermentation is complete, the leaven should be strained thoroughly.
2. Soup
The soup base is water and spices. In the classic version, the flavor is enriched with garlic, bay leaf, allspice, pepper and cumin. This is a set that gives the keselica its typical profile.
The leaven is added to the boiling broth, controlling the acidity intensity. The soup should have a distinct flavor, but not aggressive. Everything is cooked briefly, just to combine the aromas.
To obtain a more delicate structure, cream mortar is often used. This is an element found in newer interpretations, which softens the taste and gives the dish creaminess.
Keselica traditionally is served with boiled potatoes. Not as an addition to the soup, but alongside it – exactly as it was done in old homes.
There is huge potential in regional cuisine. Keselica is a great example of this – a humble dish, yet full of character. A taste that can also be found outside the Beskids. Enjoy your meal.
Sources: Terazgotuje.pl
